Nigerian-born chef, Adejoké Bakare, made history after becoming the first Black woman in the United Kingdom (UK) to earn a Michelin Star, the gold standard in the culinary world for a restaurant and its chef. The accolade marked a turning point for British fine dining, and a recognition of both her talent and the cultural significance of her West African cuisine.
Bakare’s win, in February 2024, also makes her the second Black woman globally to earn a Michelin Star for her own restaurant, following Georgiana Viou of Rouge in France in 2023; a French chef from Benin, that specializes in Mediterranean cuisine with an African touch.
Born and raised in Nigeria, Bakare’s earliest career steps were grounded in science. She studied microbiology and later moved to the UK, where she worked in a variety of fields, including property management and health and safety.
Cooking was never part of her professional plan. It was simply something she loved, an outlet for creativity and a way to stay rooted in her West African heritage. She hosted informal supper clubs for friends and community members, developing her culinary voice far from the spotlight.
Her quiet passion took a public turn in 2019, when Bakare entered the Brixton Kitchen competition on a whim. Competing in the amateur category, she emerged as the winner, earning the opportunity to open a three-month pop-up in Brixton Village. The success of that pop-up, named Chishuru, was swift and electric.
With success came new challenges
Diners were drawn to her fresh, fearless take on West African cuisine; the flavours were bold, layered, and deeply personal. Word spread quickly, and Chishuru soon became one of London’s most talked-about restaurants.
However, as demand surged, the modest Brixton space could no longer keep up. In 2022, Bakare made the tough decision to close her doors temporarily while searching for a bigger location. Rather than pursue traditional investors, she turned to her growing community of supporters and launched a crowdfunding campaign to bring Chishuru to a permanent home in Soho.
It was a gamble, but one rooted in confidence. When the restaurant reopened in 2023, it was clear Chishuru had evolved into something even more ambitious without losing the soul that made it special.
Then, in 2024, the Michelin Guide came calling; Bakare’s star wasn’t just for technique, it was for storytelling. Each dish on her menu carried the echoes of family, memory, and migration. After getting her Michelin Star, she was also named ‘Chef of the Year’ in the same year at the National Restaurant Awards 2024.
Her awards signalled a broader shift in the industry, which was a long-overdue celebration of Black excellence and the rich culinary traditions often sidelined in the fine dining world.
She extends beyond the kitchen
Bakare’s impact extends far beyond her kitchen. The Nigerian-born chef has become a vocal advocate for equity in hospitality, unafraid to challenge outdated norms. When high-profile chef Jason Atherton publicly claimed that sexism was no longer an issue in the industry, Bakare was one of 70 women chefs who signed an open letter pushing back.
“A lot of these things have been going on for years and there’s been no change,” she told The Independent, calling for an “MOT”—a full diagnostic of the hospitality sector—to assess whether it truly serves everyone equally.
Today, Adejoké Bakare isn’t just recognized for her Michelin-star status, she’s a pioneering force reshaping the landscape of British cuisine. Through Chishuru, she hasn’t merely opened a restaurant; she’s ignited a broader conversation about representation, identity, and the richness of West African food on the world stage.
Written by Kweku Sampson.
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